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Taking Stock Of Street Style
Kick the brogues off, unknot the neck tie, and hang your overcoat up to dry – the European men’s fashion weeks are over. We’ve seen hulking models in bright pink knits and a shedload of 1970s references; we’ve seen new designers, old brands, as well as new things from old brands. And we’ve even seen (can’t unsee) some entirely unexpected peen, courtesy of Rick Owens.
As always, the menswear shows offered an insight into what we’ll all be clamouring after come autumn/winter 2015. But, just as important as dissecting what went down the runway is taking a look at what the menswear elite chose to wear off of it.
Here’s our edit of eight key street style trends we spotted across London, Pitti, Milan and Paris, which you can try out now:
1. Checked Tailoring
Particularly prominent at London Collections: Men and Pitti Uomo, checked tailoring is a trend that is still going strong. And with everything from classic Prince of Wales and tartan motifs to subtle gingham patterns and statement-making windowpane checks on display, versatility is clearly the driving force behind its continued popularity.
While many attendees opted for just one check piece (a well-cut overcoat or suit jacket) as the focal point of their outfit, our prime props are reserved for those men who nailed head-to-toe looks, or layered different types of checks for an effect that may sound over the top, but in reality looked superb.
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Key Pieces
2. Contrast Sleeves & Gilets
Ever since the varsity jacket made its comeback a few years ago, contrast sleeves have worked their way into many modern gents’ wardrobes.
We’ve moved on from a simple black leather sleeve though – this season the menswear tastemakers kicked the trend up a notch, opting for jackets with sharply contrasting sleeves, whether in terms of colour (canary yellow against a body of light olive) or fabric (leather sleeves against a body of tweed).
Though not technically a contrast sleeve, plenty of menswear’s major players achieved a similar effect by layering gilets or tailored vests over suiting or smart separates – a trick that not only adds essential warmth to a winter look, but creates an attention-grabbing contrast to boot.
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Key Pieces
3. Statement Overcoats
A given, really, considering it’s the autumn/winter 2015 show circuit we’re talking about here, and yet, this season really consolidated the importance of the overcoat in contemporary menswear.
Pity the fool whose outerwear game isn’t on point – it’s no longer acceptable to throw on whatever’s warm and hanging around the house. From classic camel styles to more adventurous designs, show venues were teeming with nattily tailored overcoats this season.
If you haven’t already secured one, a statement overcoat – whether it’s a timeless single-breasted classic in jet black or ash grey, or something louder in bright blue or red – should be top of your sartorial wish list.
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Key Pieces
4. Blue
We’re not sure what got into the water in Florence, but blue was big at Pitti. Though neutrals and pops of colours like burgundy, pine green and orange dominated the main European fashion weeks, Pitti was awash with blue, from cobalt to cerulean.
Along with a playful use of checks, Pitti attendees either used bright shades to accent their tailored looks – a petrol blue fedora here, a baby blue neck tie there – or they really went for it with tonal tailored looks that epitomised the humour of Pitti, in contrast to the sometimes stone-faced aloofness of other major menswear events.
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Key Pieces
5. Voluminous Scarves
The ‘manket’ may not have taken off to the same extent that the industry expected it to, but what the past few weeks have proved is that scarves certainly aren’t getting any smaller.
From relatively slender styles that snake almost to the ground to hulking woven scarves coiled carefully around the neck, scarves mean serious business this season.
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Key Pieces
6. Trainers With Tailoring
Though there are still plenty of us that wince slightly on seeing something as casual as a pair of trainers worn with tailoring (whether a full suit or trouser separates), the trend has gone from burgeoning to big-time over the last year.
At the recent shows, there was a move away from panelled, neon New Balance styles to smarter, minimalist trainers, most of them in white (with the go-to model being the Stan Smith). Comfortable and classic, this look is perfect for striking the balance between form and function when you’re traipsing through the streets all day.
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Key Pieces
7. Denim
Already capitalising on one of spring/summer 2015’s biggest trends, several men’s style aficionados chose denim either for the bulk of their outfit or as a contrast layer.
Doubling up on the fabric with a pair of jeans and a denim shirt underneath a sharp overcoat was a favoured combination, while swapping the traditional Oxford button-down for a denim version was another go-to move we applauded.
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Key Pieces
8. Folios
Given that most of the men we’re featuring were likely lugging around an average of ten show invitations on any given day, it’s not surprising that many of them carried a folio to store them.
That said, where totes and holdalls were previously the first choice of menswear’s most formidable, now folios are the invitation holder du jour.
From compact to capacious, classic black to all-over camo, a folio is the perfectly sleek accompaniment to a well-appointed outfit.
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Key Pieces
Final Word
If you’re on the lookout for some sure-fire ways to bring your current wardrobe bang up to date, then incorporating one, or more, of these trends is a great place to start before delving into spring/summer 2015.
Will you be trying your hand at any of these? Were there other trends you spotted on the streets?
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